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Hydrosols in Skincare By Amandine Devillard

Oct 6
3 min read

Pg. 92-99 - 7-minute read


Hydrosols, also known as hydrolats, are increasingly recognized as valuable aromatherapy products rather than simply a by-product of essential oil distillation. They are distilled plant waters that can be used for skincare, hair care, therapeutic applications, veterinary care, and even agriculture. A genuine hydrosol contains only the distilled plant water, without added fragrance, preservatives, or alcohol. I prefer unpreserved and unmodified hydrosols, provided they are produced well and stored properly. Checking the INCI is one of the simplest ways to verify authenticity: the plant’s Latin name followed by “water” should be present without additional ingredients.


Because hydrosols are delicate and susceptible to bacterial and fungal contamination, proper handling is essential. I recommend using fresh hydrosols, ideally less than a year old, and checking their appearance and aroma before use. A change in scent does not necessarily mean spoilage, as hydrosols naturally evolve over time, but a foul or unpleasant odor is a clear warning sign. Keeping them refrigerated or in a cool, dark, stable environment helps preserve their quality. For daily use, a pre-sanitized pump dispenser is preferable because it minimizes repeated opening, contact with the bottle, and other opportunities for contamination.


One of the things I find particularly fascinating about hydrosols is their diversity. They can come from aromatic plants that also produce essential oils, such as lavender, rosemary, rose, neroli, and lemon balm, but they can also be distilled from plants that produce little or no useful essential oil, such as cornflower, witch hazel, bamboo, calendula, blackcurrant, nettle, and plantain. In cosmetics, hydrosols can be used as gentle toners and cleansing waters, facial and body mists, hair treatments, steam-bath preparations, or as part of the water phase in creams, serums, masks, shampoos, and other formulations. Different hydrosols offer different cosmetic qualities—for example, calendula for soothing sensitive skin, blackcurrant for an antioxidant and refreshing toner, bamboo for oily skin, and cistus for more mature or blemish-prone skin.


Hydrosols can be incorporated into a daily skincare routine, but they still need to be treated as active and delicate ingredients. Some are more heat-sensitive than others, particularly non-aromatic hydrosols, so I prefer adding them after an emulsion has formed when appropriate rather than unnecessarily exposing them to high temperatures. Their naturally acidic pH can also affect formulations and the compatibility of other active ingredients, making formulation knowledge important. For everyday skincare, I like varying hydrosols according to the skin’s changing needs and applying them from the lightest, most water-based products toward richer formulations. After more than 15 years of using hydrosols in skincare, I find their versatility, gentle nature, diversity, and delicate aromas make them an especially valuable part of a natural skincare routine.


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