From the citrus industry we now move on to touch a bit of the perfume industry through the exciting explorations by Jan Kusmirek, founder of Fragrant Earth International. Jan shares his profound thoughts on aroma and its relationship to the diatonic scale, some forgotten aspects of the works of such as Septimus Piesse and Marguerite Maury, along with putting research data and industry governance into the context of the challenges many have to face: ‘Standardised materials are not always what one wants.’
“The perfume industry exists as a place of emotional response. Perfume is described by poetry, and as no vocabulary exists in single words to describe the effect that our sense of smell may have poetry has to be employed. I am perhaps famous for teaching that any fragrance or scent has only two responses for humans; it will evoke or provoke. Either way an effect is produced, and our thoughts motivate us into more complex emotional patterns of appreciation or rejection.“
“The scents used today are far beyond essential oils, absolutes, and common natural substances. The petrochemical industry has been a major source of new synthesised volatile aromatic material. Today the demand for natural perfumes has led the industry into a host of chemical copycats of single molecules, then as chemically identical, said to be natural. Now the new world of fermentation process techniques provide and construct smells unknown to man or nature.”
This excerpt is again cited from our Spring throwback series. For the full article, get your copy of AROMATIKA Magazine 2021 Spring 8.1.1. edition.
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